March
Clean and repair tools and equipment.
Test your soil.
Apply pre-emergent crabgrass control.
Spray dormant oil as needed.
Remove mulch from perennials and roses (recover if threat of freeze).
Plant onions, asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries, grapevines, small bush fruits, fruit & shade trees, evergreens, shrubs and roses.
Prune fruit & shade trees, evergreens, roses, and grapevines.
Trim ornamental grasses to 4-6" above the ground.
Fertilize fruit and shade trees, evergreens, shrubs, and lawns.
Pick a permanent spot for herbs in the garden. Many of them will come up year after year.
Start fertilizing houseplants now for good growth. Any that are rootbound should be repotted.
When setting out transplants in peat pots, be careful not to allow the rim of the pot to protrude above the soil level. It will act as a wick and draw moisture up from the plant. Break away the upper rim of the pot before planting and make sure none of the peat shows above the soil.
Turn the compost pile and add manure.
Apply a pre-emergent herbicide before lawn weeds get started. These chemicals work by preventing the seed from germinating. Therefore, it is important that the herbicides be applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.
As tulip, narcissus and other large bulbs begin to emerge, set pansy plants between them for added color.
This is the time to start resurrecting the water lily pool. Drain and clean the pool before growth begins. Plant new, hardy water lilies.
Divide and transplant summer and fall blooming perennials (such as astilbe, aster, bleeding heart, coral bells, daylilies, phlox and shasta daisies). Perennials perform best in well-drained soil with plenty of humus. Astilbe, hosta and bleeding heart will bloom in the shade.
Buy some new perennials for your flower border. Spring is a good time to renew and add variety to your landscape
April
Prune fruit and shade trees, evergreen, roses, and grapevines.
Trim back ornamental grasses to 4-6"
Apply pre-emergent crabgrass control.
Fertilize fruit and shade trees, evergreens, shrubs and lawns.
Apply insecticide for grubworm control.
Apply broadleaf weed control in late April.
If over-seeding your lawn, wait wait several weeks after herbicides have been applied.
May
Plant trees, shrubs, vines, ground covers, perennials, and fruit plants of all types
Late May: Plant vegetable plants and seeds, annuals, herbs & tender bulbs
Prune flowering plants and shrubs as they are done flowering. Remove spent blooms or developed seed pods from tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, etc. Do Not remove or tie up the green leaves. They are replenishing the bulb for next year's blooms.
Fertilize as needed. Get your soil tested so you know exactly what amendments you need. The Ohio Cooperative Extension Service will test your soil sample -- 1-740-349-6900
Continue Fruit Tree, Rose, & Vegetable Spray/Dust Programs. Watch vegetable garden for developing insect or disease problems.
Mow Grass to a height of 2.5"-3" to maintain good vigor and health. Healthy grass will have fewer weed and insect problems. Apply a "Weed and Feed" fertilizer/herbicide to kill existing broadleaf weeds.
Early crop harvest of leaf lettuce, rhubarb, asparagus, and green onions.
Generally accepted frost-free date in Central Ohio is May 15
June
There is still plenty of time to plant. Just about everything can (or should be) planted now.
Mulch everything; Mulches help maintain a more uniform soil temperature, retain moisture, and help eliminate weeds.
Cabbage, green onions, leaf lettuce, rhubarb, asparagus, broccoli and strawberries can be harvested this month
Fertilize as needed. Get your soil tested so you know exactly what amendments you need. The Ohio Cooperative Extension Service will test your soil sample -- 1-740-349-6900
Continue Fruit Tree, Rose, & Vegetable Spray/Dust Programs. Watch vegetable garden for developing insect or disease problems.
Mow Grass to a height of 2.5"-3" to maintain good vigor and health. Healthy grass will have fewer weed and insect problems. Apply a "Weed and Feed" fertilizer/herbicide to kill existing broadleaf weeds.
Protect developing fruit from birds by using vinyl netting.
Still have your Poinsettia from Christmas? You can re-pot it now if necessary. Fertilize according to directions and continue to water when soil is dry to the touch. Move outside if temperatures do not fall below 50 degrees. Place in light shade.
July
Plant gladiolus bulbs and put in a final planting of bush snap peas.
In late July plant cabbage, Chinese cabbage, endive, kohlrabi, lettuce and radish for a fall garden!
Make final pinch on mums by mid-July.
Remove (deadhead) spent flowers from geraniums and other annuals to encourage bloom.
Prune sucker growths and water sprouts from apple and crabapple trees.
Cut off any remaining yellowed tops of hardy flowering bulbs.
Prune climbing roses after they are done blooming & remove dead and aging canes.
Remove small, green potato seed balls from the potato plants.
Remove any seed stalks from vegetable plants, or pull these plants and replace with others.
Renovate June-bearing strawberries by mowing off plant tops above the crown, then fertilizing (do not prune ever-bearing strawberries now).
Mulch everything; Mulches help maintain a more uniform soil temperature, retain moisture, and help eliminate weeds.
Fertilize as needed. Get your soil tested so you know exactly what amendments you need. The Ohio Cooperative Extension Service will test your soil sample -- 1-740-349-6900
Continue Fruit Tree, Rose, & Vegetable Spray/Dust Programs. Watch vegetable garden for developing insect or disease problems.
Mow Grass to a height of 2.5"-3" to maintain good vigor and health. Healthy grass will have fewer weed and insect problems. Apply a "Weed and Feed" fertilizer/herbicide to kill existing broadleaf weeds.
Protect developing fruit from birds by using vinyl netting.
Fertilize your lawn if you did not get it done in June
When fertilizing please use/mix only the amount listed on the package or less.
Supplemental watering in July and August is extremely important to most plants, especially newly planted or transplanted items.
August
September
October
Plant trees, shrubs, spring flowering bulbs, perennials and rye seed for a garden cover crop.
Harvest late varieties of apples, grapes, winter squash, pumpkins, gourds, dry onions, sweet potatoes, potatoes and Brussels sprouts.
Dig and store tender bulbs in a cool dry place till next spring.
Remove dead mum blooms, pull annual flowers, rake leaves and pull all garden plants that are done bearing to prevent over wintering pest/diseases.
Cut back perennials to the ground as they decline.
Compost all plant materials as long as they are not diseased.
Divide/transplant daylilies and iris.
Continue with the strict light/dark schedule that you started in September to make your Poinsettia flower and color-up for the holidays. Keep you plant in light from 8am to 5pm -- then place it in the dark (absolutely no light--a closet or under a bucket) from 5pm to 8am. The keys to success is to follow this strict light/dark routine very carefully, everyday, through December 1st. Continue to water regularly during this time.
November/December
Houseplants: During the shorter days of winter, the growth rate of most houseplants slows. Reduce fertilization and water until late April or May when new growth resumes. Most plants should not be watered until the soil feels dry. Water thoroughly, let the water soak in, then water again until water drains into the saucer. Empty the saucer within 1 hour, otherwise the sitting water can cause root rot. If you cannot lift your plant to get the saucer, try using a baster to remove the excess. Soil pulled away from the pot rim means inadequate watering and can result in root problems. It would be difficult to add sufficient water overhead to rewet the soil, so soak the pot in a sink or bathtub, then drain thoroughly.
Pesticide Storage: Store pesticides in a frost-free location away from food and out of reach of children & pets. If the pesticide is in a paper (cardboard) container, put the whole package in a plastic container and seal it (this keeps moisture from penetrating the contents). Be sure all bottles and cans are tightly sealed and well labeled. Store liquid pesticides where temperatures will not fall below 40 degrees F. Too low a temperature may result in a breakdown of the chemical. If the liquid should freeze, there is danger the container will break, scattering chemical in the storage area.
Evergreens: If fall rains are scarce, water landscape evergreens thoroughly once every week until the ground freezes. Sending them into winter well watered reduces the potential for damaged foliage. Broadleaf and tender evergreens need to be shaded on the south and southwest sides to reduce moisture loss and foliage damage. Apply Wilt-Pruf to broadleaf evergreens before the air temperature drops to a constant 32 degrees; this helps keep moisture loss to a minimum during the winter months.
Amaryllis Bulbs: Amaryllis bulbs may not bloom if they are in too large a pot. There should be no more than one inch of space on each side of the bulb. At least 1/3 of the bulb should be above the soil line.
Shade Trees: Newly planted shade trees, especially those with smooth bark, are often injured by temperature fluctuations and strong winter sunshine. Prevent sunscald by wrapping the tree with tree wrap.
Roses: Clean up rose beds. Be sure all diseased leaves are raked up and destroyed. Spring (before the plants start active growth) is the preferred season for pruning.
Live Christmas Trees: If you are planning on a live, balled & burlapped Christmas tree, dig a planting hole now before the ground freezes. Fill the hole with straw to keep it from freezing. Store the soil in a garage or shed so you will have workable soil when you need it for planting the tree after Christmas.
Poinsettias: Continue with the strict light/dark schedule that you started in September to make your Poinsettia flower and color-up for the holidays. Keep you plant in light from 8am to 5pm -- then place it in the dark (absolutely no light--a closet or under a bucket) from 5pm to 8am. The keys to success is to follow this strict light/dark routine very carefully, everyday, through December 1st. Continue to water regularly during this time.
General Tips to Prepare for Next Spring:
Rake up fallen leaves and remove plant debris from your property. Dried plant debris provides energy for disease organisms to survive the winter.
Compost all plant debris properly to ensure plant pathogens are destroyed. Click here for a handout on composting from the Ohio State University.
Check the roots of all non-hardy bulbs you want to save for next spring as you remove them.
Also check the roots on perennials as you divide them.
Discard those with galls, rots, or other abnormalities that might indicate a root disease or nematode problem.
Check trees and shrubs for damaged or diseased areas and remove as recommended for the situation.
Consider pruning trees and shrubs in late winter (when dormant) to increase air circulation in the landscape. This reduces the length of time moisture is present. The longer moisture is present, the greater the chance of disease.
If fireblight was a problem on apple and related plants, mark the cankered (dead) areas with white latex paint or string so you can find them when it is time for removal in late winter.
In northern areas, keep lawns mowed at the recommended height and avoid excessive rates of nitrogen to minimize snow mold problems.
Make a list of the plants with which you had problems. Use this list to choose plants with disease resistance when you plan for next years plantings.